FROM BALI BELLY TO BALI BLUES

For those who have been lucky enough to visit Bali before, you may know that it is one of the last remaining Indonesian provinces that is predominantly Hindu. Resisting the Islamic pressures many other provinces have surrendered too, the Island’s religious culture and devotion is outstanding. Famed the ‘Island of the Gods’, the captivating spiritual energy here is hard to be replicated anywhere else is the world. From idyllic coast lines to the picturesque rice fields, Bali has a lot to offer the budding traveller. But if you truly want to feel connected to and a part of the spiritual community, visiting the temples is a must. The Island is home to over twenty thousand temples, but I met my spiritual awakening in one temple in particular.

Located in the village of Manukaya, the cultural heart of Bali, Tirta Empul Temple unlocks a world of beauty, mystery and most importantly, purity. Loosely translated to ‘Holy Water’, visiting the temple offered me a religious revival second to none. ‘We believe that the creation of this temple originates from a grand battle between the God Indra and the shapeshifting king Mayadenawa’ explains my tour guide, Ayra ‘Mayadenawa started experimenting with his shapeshifting abilities and it wasn’t long before he fell into black magic.’ ‘A Priest named Sang Kulputih prayed to the God Indra to stop the evil king. Calling on his troops, it wasn’t long before the God defeated the shapeshifter, but whilst the soldiers slept Mayadenawa crept into their camp.’ ‘He created a beautiful yet poisonous pond he knew would entice the parched troops. Indra woke to find his men dead or dying, using his sword he pierced the ground and turned the pond into healing springs of holy water, reviving his army.’

Looking around I am mesmerised by the energy and atmosphere surrounding me. The temple is made up of three sections, the Jaba Pura (front yard), the Jaba Tengah (central yard) and the Jeroan (inner yard). The Jaba Tengah consists of two pools each with thirty spouts pouring out blessed holy water. Ayra explains to me how the ritual Melukat takes place in these pools, ‘the Balinese use the holy water to cleanse bad or evil spirits, energising and purifying the mind, body and soul. But do not use the last two spouts’ he warns, ‘they are only used for cleansing the dead, the living are not permitted to use it.’ Still covered head to toe in my pink and gold sarong I borrowed from a young Balinese couple, I cautiously lower myself into the freezing cold waters, trying to avoid any fishes. Hesitantly, I walk up to the first spout, turning to Ayra for support, he nods with encouragement. ‘Now, drink it!’ he yells. For anyone who has ever experienced ‘Bali belly’ I’m sure you can appreciate my uncertainty! But nevertheless, I pray to the spout, make a wish and take a sip, repeating the action three times. The water is surprisingly delicious and refreshing.

Ayra takes my hand and helps me out of the pool. ‘How do you feel?’ He asks with a big smile on his face, giggling slightly. I had no response. I can’t quite put into words how I felt. Awake? Revitalised? Self-improved? Words failed me as I struggled to describe my emotions. I cannot quite think of a way to explain it. Just the most spiritual I have ever felt. Maybe it was the Bali effect, or maybe it was just me getting completely caught up in the moment, whatever it was, it was an experience I hadn’t encountered before or since, a feeling of weightlessness and optimism that cannot be replicated. I knew the reason behind Ayra’s laugh, it was the same unexpected reaction he witnessed day in day out on this tour through Tirta Empul.

It was truly the highlight of my trip to Bali, and I would highly recommend this to anyone visiting the Indonesia Island. Whether you feel you are a ‘spiritual being’ or not, I guess this is the ultimate way to find out.